frequently asked questions Archives - PumpProducts.com
  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQs: What Does Dual Voltage Mean for My Pump?

    February 23, 2018

    Welcome to Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may also be available elsewhere, but this feature will serve as a convenient one-stop source. Today, I'll be giving a simple explanation of what dual voltage ratings mean for your pump. Why do some of your pumps listed say 208-230 volts or 208-230/460  You may see this listing on any number of our pumps, such as in the Liberty grinder pump ProVore/Omnivore series. This type of listing shows that the pump's AC motor is rated for dual voltage service, meaning that the pump can be safely run at any of the listed voltages. So if your pump motor plate says 208-230, you know that your pump must run within the range of those two voltages. Note that while the pump will be able to run on either voltage, the amperage draw will differ depending on which voltage you choose. Tri voltage (208-230/460) motors are also available for some pumps. Single voltage motors must be run at the specified voltage listing, but there is room for a little leeway - about 10% more or less than the listed voltage. This is called the service factor and allows for minor fluctuations in your power level due to various outside factors. Keep in mind that single phase motors can be either 115 or 230 volt, while three phase motors can be 208, 230, 460 volt or higher. Also note that 208-230 and 208/230 denote the same thing. Different manufacturers use different notation and PumpProducts.com abides by the manufacturer's description. This is a general overview of what you should look for when purchasing a pump on our site. Motors and electricity can get tricky, so as always, be sure to consult a certified electrician for any of your pressing motor issues or questions. Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, stocking availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800 to speak to an expert today.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQs: Discounts and Deals

    October 13, 2017

    Q: Do you guys do anything in the way of offers or discounts A: Yes! We offer free shipping on most items of $399 or more. You get a $5 coupon to apply to your first order right when you sign up. Subscribers to our email list and social media platforms (Facebook, Twitter, Linkedin) frequently get exclusive discounts and offers, so be sure to sign up. We are also developing a loyalty rewards program for our most frequent customers. We want to be sure to reward those who are part of the Pump Products family with exclusive offers. If you have any comments or suggestions for loyalty offers, let us know in the comments! Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, stocking availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQ: What Is The Difference Between A Sewage Pump & A...

    September 8, 2017

    Welcome to Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may also be available elsewhere, but this feature will serve as a convenient one-stop source. In this edition, I'll talk about sewage pumps and grinder pumps. First, watch the video explanation below: Are sewage pumps and grinder pumps the same thingSewage and grinder pumps are indeed related but are different in its construction and use. The idea that they are the same is a common misconception because many people will often use both terms interchangeably to refer to a basement pump that moves sewage water out of a building. This is where taxonomy becomes important: all grinder pumps are sewage pumps, but not all sewage pumps are grinder pumps. Much like the old quadrilateral adage (“all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares”), this aptly describes a relationship where one (sewage) is general and the other (grinder) is specialized. The key fact is that both pumps are built to move sewage when the sewage line is above the point of collection (such as with a basement toilet). So what’s the difference between these two kinds of pumps The difference between the two is the type and size of the solids that can pass through the pump. Sewage pumps can pass up to 2” waste solids. “Waste solids” in this instance generally refers to human waste (gross) or other ‘soft’ solids that can easily be broken down or dissolved. Harder and thicker solids will clog and eventually damage the pump. Grinder pumps incorporate a cutter or cutting mechanism that macerates (grinds/chops) the solids into a fine slurry to be exported. The fine slurry can be pumped higher than the solids from the sewage ejector pumps. So should I just get a grinder pump for my house if I’m worried about clogging and waste solids Grinders are more expensive, require more power and are typically built for commercial and/or light industrial applications wajit paihere a system might be strained by trying to process solids. Think motels or any place where a lot of people will use the system everyday without caring about what they flush. I’m talking about diapers, plastic, wipes, gloves, etc. So unless something very strange is going on at your house, you probably won’t need a grinder. Sewage pumps are less expensive and more suitable for domestic and/or light commercial applications. Still, if you really want a grinder for more domestic applications, Liberty makes the PRG ProVore/Omnivore grinder pump series for just such a purpose. So if I do have a grinder, can I just throw any old thing down there without worry Not exactly. While grinders are well equipped to macerate solids, they are not impervious to wear and tear over time. If things that should not be flushed down the toilet keep getting flushed down there, eventually, yes, even a grinder pump will suffer damage and have to be replaced. That is why you should do everything possible to make sure that people - whether they be employees, guests, tenants - do not abuse your system. As I always say, preventative care is the best way to ensure that your equipment keeps operating in good health for a long time. Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQs: The Difference Between Manual vs. Automatic Sewage P...

    August 14, 2017

    Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends, I’m glad you could attend, come inside, come inside: it’s Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! In this feature, I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may be available elsewhere on our site, but hopefully the FAQ category will act as a convenient one-stop source.  In this edition, I'll discuss the difference between manual and automatic pumps and give you a little information about our discounts. Q: What does it mean when you say a pump is ‘manual’ Does that mean I have to work the pump by hand A: Nope! It simply means that the pump has to be manually plugged in every time you want the pump to run. There is no mechanism to start the pump automatically. Conversely, automatic pumps feature a mechanism that will start the pump in certain conditions, typically a float switch. There are a variety of different types of switches, but probably the easiest way to help you visualize it is with a tethered switch. When the water level in a pit or basin rises, the tethered float will "swing" upward and activate the switch, which in turn activates the pump. Float switches can be purchased separately and attached to manual pumps. Q: Okay, quick followup: when is it better to have a manual pump or vice versa A: It's really just a matter of control: if you want to know exactly when your pump runs, how long it runs, how much water it pumps, etc. then you should buy a manual pump. If you'd rather just set up your pump system and let the amount of  water determine its operation, buy an automatic pump. Generally speaking, our application engineers recommend getting an automatic pump with a piggyback float - you can always detach the float and run the pump manually if you so desire. Keep in mind that manual pumps also need to be hardwired directly into a control panel. Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, stocking availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQ: Should I Increase My Pumps Horsepower?

    July 27, 2017

    Welcome to Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! In this feature, I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may be available elsewhere on our site, but hopefully the FAQ category will act as a convenient one-stop source. In this edition, I'll discuss whether it's a good idea to increase your pumps horsepower for an existing system. Q: Should I get a more powerful pump (in terms of HP) than my old one Customers looking to replace a pump are often looking for an upgrade. It’s perfectly natural and could apply to virtually any other consumer driven field. People don’t want to settle for the old thing, they want newer, bigger, flasher. When it comes to pumps, “upgrading” could mean a variety of different changes. One of the most frequent requests we get from people looking to change is for a higher horsepower pump. Many have the conception that more power is always a good thing or that increased HP will lead to more pressure. While this can sometimes work out, upping the horsepower can often lead to damage to your pump or system. Increased motor power can lead to the pump running “dry.” That means evacuating the water in a pit/basin at an unsustainable rate, to the extent that the basin is emptied before it can be replenished. That leaves your pump essentially sucking on air. Water acts as both a coolant and lubricating agent. When a pump runs dry it can overheat causing the internal components to damage or spark due to friction. Of course, there are pumps that can be run dry intermittently, such as the Goulds WS_D3 Sewage Pumps. But my larger point is about proper sizing, which is something we here at PumpProducts.com emphasize often. Knowing your system, your application and all the precise requirements will ensure you get the right pump for your application and that the pumps runs to its most efficient possible use. Bigger is not always better. Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQ: Credit Card Info and Returns

    June 22, 2017

    Welcome to Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! In this feature, I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may be available elsewhere on our site, but hopefully the FAQ category will act as a convenient one-stop source.  In this edition we will discuss web security on PumpProducts.com, return information and the warranty process. Q: What do you do with my credit card information A: We use it to buy a lot of cool stuff for ourselves. If you see a credit card charge from Entertainment 720, that’s us buying cool stuff for our office, including: comfortable chairs and couches, tablets, high tech speaker systems, a big screen LCD TV,  designer clothes... Haha, I’m just kidding! Old Pumphead got you good, huh In all seriousness folks, credit cards get encrypted so that not even our salesmen can read the numbers once they type it into our system. That’s why sometimes a salesmen will ask for you to repeat the number over the phone. This is to ensure that your information remains safe and secure from potential threats. Q: I need to return my pump, what do I do A: Our full terms of sale and return policy is can be found on our site, and I highly encourage you read the full version to get the relevant details. The bottom line is you can return uninstalled and unopened merchandise within 30 days of the receipt for a full refund (minus shipping if the original order included free shipping). Uninstalled and opened products are subject to a restocking fee to cover examining, cleaning and testing the product, as well as the cost of the product taking up space on our shelves. Q: So I can’t get a full refund if I install the pump How am I supposed to know if it works A: The returns policy specifically covers instances where the customer, for whatever reason, simply no longer needs or wants the pump. This sometimes happens when conditions at a job location changes or if someone ordered the pump as a backup option. If the pump is installed and is not working properly, the situation becomes a warranty issue. Q: Okay, so how does the warranty process work A: Warranties are serviced by the manufacturer of the pump. Pump Products has dedicated service representatives to handle warranty claims. The first step, however, will be to contact the manufacturer directly to try and troubleshoot any issues. Often we find that suspected issues with a pump are actually problems with another aspect of a system. Clogged pipes in particular are a common problem. If the pump continues to to give you problems despite the troubleshooting, then we can start the warranty process. Call us at 1-800-429-0800 and one of our representatives will contact the manufacturer and start the paperwork. The process can sometimes take a few business days while the manufacturer evaluates the claim. If the claim is granted, you will be getting a new working replacement pump of the type you originally ordered. A new pump is not sent out until warranty is granted by the manufacturer. Pump Products applications engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as provide price quotes, availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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  • Faq

    Inspector Pumphead’s FAQ: Well Pump Edition

    May 23, 2017

    Welcome to Inspector Pumphead’s Frequently Asked Questions! I will be answering some of the most common questions we get on a specific topic. Some of this information may also be available elsewhere, but this feature will serve as a convenient one-stop source. In this edition, I'll talk about well pumps. Well Pump FAQ 1. Why are there two different types of well pumps listed What’s the difference between ‘jet’ and ‘submersible’ Jet well pumps are surface pumps configured above the well system, while a jet assembly system (twin pipe or Packer depending on the application) is inserted into the well shaft. The main components of a jet pump are a nozzle, venturi and the jet itself. The physics and mechanics of it are interesting, but we’ll focus on the basics here: these components work together to create a vacuum above the water, which allows atmospheric pressure underneath to push the water upwards. Jet pumps can be either horizontally or vertically configured and are much the same size and shape as other pumps. Submersible well pumps are actually installed and submerged under water at the base of the well. Whereas jet pumps use suction to pull water, submersible pumps create pressure to push the water in an upward direction. Submersible well pumps are cylindrical and “thin” in diameter so as to easily fit down a well shaft. They are often tall as well since submersible well pumps usually contain multiple stages stacked on top of each other. A stage is simply a compartment with an impeller, diffuser and upthrust washer that increases the pressure as water moves up through each stage. The more stages, the higher the head. 2. So which one is better As is always the case when it comes to pumps, the answer is “it depends on your system and application.” Submersible pumps are more efficient, especially in deeper wells. The farther the pump is away from the water table, the less effective it will be. Since submersible well pumps are closer to the source, they are more reliable. The downside to a submersible pump is that it must be pulled out for maintenance, repair or replacement. Being submerged also exposes the pump to contaminants such as sand. 3. What constitutes a ‘deep well’ or ‘shallow well’ The depth of the well refers specifically to the depth of the water table, which is the top of the reservoir. A water table 25 ft. or fewer underground, while any water table deeper than 25 ft. is considered a deep well. 4. What is a convertible jet pump A convertible jet pump is a pump that can be configured for either shallow well or deep well applications with the proper fittings. Convertible jet pumps are often built as deep well jet pumps and include a bolt on shallow well adapter. Deep well fittings, such as the jet assembly (twin pipe or Packer) are usually purchased separately. 5. Why would I need a convertible pump Shouldn’t I just get either a deep well or shallow well pump Usually you’d be able to stick with either one or the other type of jet well pump. In some areas, however, water tables may fluctuate due to the climate, unique elevation, topography changes or other factors. A convertible jet well pump ensures that you will be prepared and will continue to receive well water in such a case. Pump Products application engineers are standing by to help you find the right pump, as well as to provide price quotes, availability and shipping information. Call our toll free number 1-800-429-0800.

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